Why your crocheted pieces aren't turning out as well as expected and how to solve it

Finished your project, but it doesn't look quite like the picture on your pattern? Here's how blocking can help you smooth over small imperfections, get your squares really square and give your work that lovely professional drape.
Crochet patterns often finish off by saying, "Now block your project," but without precise instructions or a very good reason to take this extra step, you’d be forgiven for thinking you could safely skip the whole blocking thing and just enjoy your finished piece as it is.
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But the truth is that blocking can turn a so-so project into a really beautiful creation that you can be proud of. And it’s also a clever way to conceal or even resolve minor imperfections in your work.
Blocking is basically the process of dampening, or even washing, your finished crochet project and then pegging it out to dry. It sounds simple – and it is. But when crochet is wet, it is very stretchy, and during the pegging process, you can tweak misshapen squares into perfect alignment, make sure sweater sleeves are exactly the same length and sort out any wonky hems that may have crept into your work. By the time the piece has dried, it will look like it was perfect all along.
To block successfully, you need a few simple things on hand. The most important thing is time: Blocking will add at least 24 hours to your project, as it works best if the crochet is left to dry naturally. Then you will need a surface on which to block the project. Any kind of foam, soft tile or thick cardboard will do. I use a piece of an old yoga mat, which works very well. The surface has to be smooth and must be able to withstand being pierced with pins, which are the next things you need. Craft stores sell special pins for blocking, but any old pins you have at home will do. I recommend the ones with colored glass heads, as you can see clearly where each pin is. And it’s good to leave the blocking well out of the way of children and pets while it dries. I pop mine on top of the fridge.
First, take your finished crochet and study the yarn label for washing instructions. Some yarns are fine to be soaked in water or washed; some must only be sprayed to dampen. Some can only be steamed. Wet the work accordingly (unless it's steam only) and then refer back to the pattern. If you’ve been making squares or a garment, the pattern probably specifies dimensions. Measure your work, gently pull or push it into the right shape and then pin everything in place to the correct size. At the very least, use a pin in each corner and one in the middle for a square, but you’ll be able to judge what works best. If your yarn can only be steamed, then do this with a hot iron or steamer when it is pegged out. Once everything’s pinned, leave the work to dry.
You’ll be amazed at the difference blocking makes. Projects have a lot more flexibility and sheen once the wool has been washed or dampened, and all your edges should look a lot sharper and neater after your minor adjustments. Yes, blocking takes extra time, but it gives great results and shows off your hard work to its best advantage. You might even be inspired to create your own DIY blocking station for granny squares, like the one below.
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